A Fashion Icon Bids Farewell: The Legacy of Nichanian at Hermes
The end of an era in Paris fashion has arrived, as the renowned Nichanian steps down after 37 years at the helm of Hermes' menswear.
Her departure is part of a broader shift in the European luxury fashion landscape, with a new wave of designers taking the reins at iconic brands like Chanel, Dior, and Gucci. But here's where it gets controversial: many of these new designers were still in school when Nichanian began her journey at Hermes in 1988.
Born and raised in Paris, Nichanian played a pivotal role in transforming Hermes from a niche luxury brand known for scarves and leather goods into a global powerhouse. Her design philosophy, much like her personality, was discreet and focused on quality and comfort, favoring subtle evolutions over flashy reinventions.
At 71, she announced her departure, expressing a desire to relax and fulfill her long-held dream of spending time in Japan. And this is the part most people miss: Hermes, in a male-dominated industry, has consistently placed women in charge as creative directors, a bold move that challenges traditional norms.
Womenswear, designed by fellow French couturier Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski since 2014, will continue this legacy, while Nichanian's successor, Grace Wales Bonner, a London-based designer in her 30s, brings a fresh, modern perspective to the classic French house.
"Grace Wales Bonner is not just modern and committed; she brings an image and a unique point of view," says Marie Ottavi, a fashion journalist at France's Liberation newspaper. Wales Bonner's work, inspired by her Afro-Caribbean roots and British tailoring, represents a stylistic shift for Hermes.
On the eve of her final show, Nichanian reflected on the changing fashion industry, expressing concern about the loss of magic and the pressure faced by designers. She started her career under the mentorship of Italian designer Nino Cerruti, who recognized her talent while she was still in fashion school.
"It was a macho milieu," she recalled of her early days. "Men didn't expect a woman to lead, but I had to work harder and prove myself."
Beyond her modernizing touch, Nichanian is known for her attention to detail, creating hidden luxuries like lambskin-lined pockets. "Men never compromise on comfort," she told Le Figaro. "My goal is to offer them an invisible, yet sensual comfort, a relaxed chic."
Her final show during Men's Fashion Week will be a testament to her legacy, a showcase of her past work with a modern twist. It's a celebration of a designer who has left an indelible mark on the fashion world, and a reminder that sometimes, it's time to pass the torch.
